Surge in population

Back here, nothing much has changed. This country is still a mystery wrapped in an enigma. In 2004, the population was 744,000. Last year (in other words six months ago), it was estimated at 855,000. The experts now think that number will swell to 910,000 by the end of the year. Of that figure, only around 200,000 are native. Imagine Ireland if the locals were outnumbered four to one. While any citizen from anywhere should be welcome in any country on the planet, as fas as I am concerned, when the natives are so vastly outnumbered, it surely creates a volatile society.

Most of the ex-pats here are sending home all the money they earn. They are not Muslim; they have no feeling of belonging here and they spend as little as possible. English not Arabic is the lingua franca, so there is little point in any visitor learning Arabic and by that means absorbing some of the local culture. Having said that, any locals I have been lucky enough to meet are good humoured and generous; they’re nice people.

After a few months here, it is obvious that there are a few good business heads around. They have shifted the emphasis in their economy from oil to natural gas, which is smart. They are attempting to bring high profile sporting and cultural events here. While people say you have to be careful about what you say, events such as the televised debates encourage a free exchange of views, as does the existence of a top quality Arab news station, which is ready to take on CNN and BBC World. The English language newspapers regularly report on instances of deaths on building sites and other abuses suffered by ex-pat workers; there is no attempt at a cover-up. The long report of the Human Rights Commission was translated in full and published; it was supported by the Government, despite its trenchant criticisms on some aspects of life here. Any country confident enough to accept criticism gets my vote and unlike in Ireland, you feel that this report will have an effect (on the matter of exit visas for ex-pats, for instance).
But no, I am not yet ready to tell you where I am….